Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.
Knit right and left socks, if you wish. Sock sizes 10 to 13. Your own choice of initials (or leave blank). Perhaps your initial on one mug, his on the other.
Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER ONE needles. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 10 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. Note: 10 stitches per inch means 'as knit', without allowance for blocking. Socks then block to about 9 stitches per inch on usual size dryers, and will cling snugly to the average size leg when worn. For a very small size leg (such as 7 inches around above ankle) you may wish to knit to a tighter tension gauge than mentioned above, using the smallest possible needles. Use your own choice of yarn colors.
NOTE (CHOOSING YARN) In choosing yarn be sure colors selected are in good contrast to show the design in sharp detail. Suggested alternate colors: (All used with amber color for the beer and white Angora for the foam) GREEN, AQUA or LIGHT BLUE sock with GREY glass; NAVY BLUE with LIGHT BLUE glass; BEIGE or LIGHT BROWN with LIGHT GREEN glass; DARK GREY with BLACK.
Note that on row #12, rim of glass is represented by half-squares of LT. GREEN color to improve the delicacy of design. This means that this row is not purled back in the same color it is knit, but in the color (Angora) indicated by lower half of square. Follow colors as indicated. This variation applies to this row only. All other rows are purled back in exact same colors as knitted.
NOTE: Directions herein are complete, including recommended methods for heel and toe. Free detailed instructions for beginners on how to knit, purl, etc., should be obtainable where yarn is purchased.
MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following quantities of yarn for an average size pair of socks, are approximate only): 2½ oz. basic color (dark green), 8 yds. lime green for glass, 10 yds. amber or beige for beer color, 12 yds. Angora for foam. (Note: The 100% French Angora is recommended for the foam, since it is the fuzziest. Some heavy texture brands may make stitches too large to be attractive. In this case the lighter texture Angora may be obtained by untwisting one ply and knitting with part remaining.)
Socks illustrated are 7 inches long above top of heel, including 2 inches of ribbing. If longer or shorter socks are desired, change length of ribbing or change the number of plain rows above or below pattern design. Use size Number ONE sock needles, double pointed, and regular 3-ply sock yarn.
IMPORTANT (Handling Yarn)—Use needles and yarn in the above accurate sizes in order to have sock of proper size per this pattern. Knitting tension should produce 10 stitches per inch. Use BOBBINS to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color. These will dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglement. For certain small areas of color involving only a few stitches, you may prefer to merely use SHORT STRANDS of yarn, 12 to 15 inches long, dangling free, instead of bothering to wind separate bobbins. RECOMMENDATION—Make free use of additional bobbins or short strands as new color groups are encountered. A given strand will often be used over again for stitches in the same color group in the following rows, so be sure it is started long enough for the color group it is to handle. CAUTION—It is not desirable to carry one color yarn across the wrong side of another color, to reach stitches of the same color farther along the row. This would save extra strands of yarn, but in so doing the tension variation is likely to cause distortion of the stitches and thus spoil the clarity of the design. In some cases this carry-over of yarn can be accomplished satisfactorily across only one or two stitches of another color, where design detail is not too critical. Some experienced knitters can carry yarn across even more than 2 stitches and avoid a loose loop on inside of sock by twisting the yarn carried with the yarn being worked, but the danger of design distortion must be considered. You will have a more beautiful finished article if separate strands are used freely. The only inconvenience is a few more yarn ends to take care of in finishing inside of sock.
RECOMMENDATION ON BOBBINS FOR THIS PATTERN
Use 3 bobbins of background color for the principal areas as separated by the 2 beer glasses. Use separate bobbin of light green for each glass, also for beer color and Angora foam in each glass design. Fill in with short strands for isolated small color groups as necessary. Total of 9 bobbins required (3 basic color, 2 light green, 2 amber, 2 Angora).
LEG PATTERN—This part of sock is knitted in a flat piece, eventually to be folded and sewed together up the back. The successive rows on the pattern are knitted in order from left to right and each row is purled back. Each pattern row thus represents 2 rows of usual knitting. First cast on 72 stitches of basic color and knit 2, purl 2, for ribbing for 2 inches.
Knit the first 8 rows of pattern plain, always purling each row back to the beginning before starting next row. Knit the 9th row as shown on graph, that is: 19 dark green, 3 Angora, 28 dark green, 3 Angora, 19 dark green. These numbers are indicated on graph to save counting squares. In changing colors, always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now turn and purl back ON THIS SAME ROW, using the same colors in the same places. Now knit row No. 10 in the indicated color sequences: 17 dark green, 6 Angora … etc., and purl back as before.
PURL BACK VARIATIONS (HALF SQUARES)—Note that on row number 12 (rims of glasses), certain stitches as represented by squares, are divided in half and colored accordingly, to provide finer detail in the design. This means that these particular stitches are NOT purled back in the same colors knitted, but in the new colors indicated by lower half of squares. Thus rim of glass is knitted across as 8 light green, 1 Angora, 1 light green, 3 Angora, and is purled back as 12 Angora, 1 light green. This variation applies to this one row only. All other rows are purled back in exact same colors knitted. Continue knitting the successive rows in this manner using the color sequences indicated on the graph. After row No. 36 the work separates to knit the heel. Divide the 72 stitches, taking 18 off each end and place on a separate needle for the heel. In so doing the leg of the sock is folded into position for sewing up the back later. Leave the 36 center stitches on one needle and discontinue work thereon while doing the heel.
HEEL—(Reinforced type) Using the 36 heel stitches, slip 1, knit 1 in sequence for the first row, then purl back. Continue thus in successive rows for 2 inches. On the last purl row, purl 20 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 21 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2-inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles.
INSTEP—At this point the entire sock is on three needles, consisting of the instep needle with the 36 center stitches (which must be kept separate), and the two underfoot needles on which the stitches along the edge of the finished heel are evenly divided. Now use a 4th working needle and knit the plain-color foot round and round as with plain socks, and at the same time form the triangular gusset which widens the ankle, by decreasing 1 stitch at the forward point of each underfoot needle ON EVERY OTHER KNIT ROW (single rows) until only 18 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. You will probably decrease 13 or 14 times depending on whether 21 or 22 stitches were picked up along the heel edge. Continue knitting the foot without further decreasing until 2½ inches from the desired length of the foot.
TOE—Now start decreasing to shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each under-foot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 1 plain, 1 dec., then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle). Weave toe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with yarn coming from back of knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off, then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on. This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off P—on
Back needle P—off K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.
FINISH—Sew sock up the back, using corresponding color of yarn and tapestry needle. Finish inside of sock by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block socks on dryers of proper size.
Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown in color and by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares. The number of rows and number of stitches in each, depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the approximate size of sock desired in order to fit the wearer's leg. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.
Each row is normally knitted and purled back in the same colors. For certain patterns which are easily repeated, the knitter may, in purling back, go to the next row. In this case the indicated pattern will be reduced in size by one-half, and the entire pattern must then be repeated in order to achieve the length indicated.
Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of plain socks. In certain patterns where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot, this part of the sock may be knitted round and round as in plain socks.
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