Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.
Knit right and left socks, if you wish. Sizes 10 to 13.
Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER ONE needles. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 10 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. Note: 10 stitches per inch means 'as knit', without allowance for blocking. Socks then block to about 9 stitches per inch on usual size dryers, and will cling snugly to the average size leg when worn. For a very small size leg (such as 7 inches around above ankle) you may wish to knit to a tighter tension gauge than mentioned above, using the smallest possible needles. Use your own choice of yarn colors.
ROWS NOS. 9. 11, 12, 13, 19, AND 20 HAVE STITCHES WHICH ARE PURLED BACK IN A DIFFERENT COLOR TO FORM FINER DETAIL IN THE DESIGN.
THESE STITCHES ARE INDICATED BY THE SQUARES WHICH ARE DIVIDED IN HALF AND COLORED ACCORDINGLY FULL DIRECTIONS ON REVERSE SIDE UNDER "PURL BACK VARIATIONS."
(Directions herein are complete, including recommended methods for heel and toe which place sewed seams at side of foot to insure wearing comfort. Free detailed instructions for beginners on how to knit, purl, etc., should be obtainable from the shop where yarn is purchased.)
MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following yarn quantities for an average size pair of socks, are approximate only.) 2 oz. basic color grey, ½ oz. white, 5 yds. black, 8 yds. red. (You may wish to use yellow or beige instead of white.) Socks illustrated are 7 inches long above top of heel, including 2 inches of ribbing. If longer socks are desired, add ribbing or plain rows at the top. Use size No. 1 sock needles, double pointed, and regular 3-ply sock yarn.
IMPORTANT—Use needles and yarn in these accurate sizes in order to achieve proper size sock per this pattern. Knitting tension should produce an average gauge of about 10 stitches per inch. Note: It is well to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color, on bobbins which dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglement. Thus for row No. 2 where pattern begins, you will need 3 bobbins for the separate color groups grey, white, grey. On row No. 3 start using a separate bobbin (or short 10 inch strand dangling free) of black for the letter "A". The single black stitch does not prevent using a single bobbin for the white in this row. Simply carry the white yarn across the wrong side of the interrupting black stitch. You will wish to carry the yarn across single interrupting stitches elsewhere on the pattern, particularly the single grey columns of stitches which separate the white cards. It is not advisable to so carry across more than one or 2 stitches because an undesirable loose loop is formed on inside of sock, unless the yarn carried is twisted properly with the yarn being worked. This twisting tends to distort the stitches unless it is done with great care. In this pattern it is important to have the stitches accurately formed in order that the card symbols be clearly outlined. It is therefore recommended that bobbins or separate strands of yarn be used for each symbol, and for the background colors on each side of same.
LEG PATTERN—This part of the sock is knitted in a flat piece, eventually to be folded and sewed together up the back. First cast on 72 stitches of basic color and knit 2, purl 2, for ribbing for 2 inches. Knit the first row of pattern plain and purl back. Knit 2nd row as shown on graph, that is 18 grey, 24 white, 30 grey. These numbers are indicated on the graph to save counting squares. In changing colors always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now turn and purl back ON THIS SAME ROW, using the same colors in the same places. Now knit row No. 2 in the indicated color sequence ... 18 grey, 3 white, 1 black … etc. and purl back as before. Continue thus for 36 rows, after which work separates into instep and heel. (Note special instructions for rows 9, 11, 12, 13, 19 and 20 which follow).
PURL BACK VARIATIONS—You will note that, on rows 9, 11, 12, 13, 19 and 20 certain stitches, as shown by squares, are divided in half and colored accordingly, to form finer detail in the design. This means you do NOT purl back these stitches in the same colors they are knit, but use the new color as indicated. Thus for row No. 9 knit 18 grey, 1 white, 1 white (divided square), 1 white, 1 black, 1 white, 1 white (divided square), 1 white, 1 grey, 2 white, 3 red, 2 white, 39 grey. In purling back purl 39 grey, 2 white, 3 red, 2 white, 1 grey, 1 white, 1 black (divided square), 1 white, 1 black, 1 white, 1 black (divided square), 1 white, 18 grey. Similarly handle stitches indicated in the other rows mentioned in order to form the shape of the club, heart, and spade symbols. These purl-back variations apply to these 6 rows only. All other rows are purled back in exactly the same colors knitted.
INSTEP—After completing 36 rows, divide the 72 stitches, taking 18 off each end, place on separate needles or stitch holders to work later (will be the heel.) Now continue pattern down the instep of the sock using only the 36 center stitches. First row is 16 grey, 7 white … etc. Continue for 5 rows to end of pattern. Now discontinue work on this part of sock and knit the heel.
HEEL—(Reinforced type) Place the 2 groups of 18 stitches, previously divided from the instep pattern, on one needle. This folds the main pattern, or leg of the sock, into position for sewing up the back later. Now slip 1, knit 1 in sequence for the first row, then purl back. Continue thus in successive rows for 2 inches. On the last purl row, purl 20 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 21 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2-inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles. Now proceed to knit a row, purl a row, alternately, and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the foot ON EACH KNIT ROW ONLY, to form ankle gusset. When work evens up with instep pattern previously completed, join all work together on 3 needles, keeping the 36 instep stitches on the one needle, other stitches evenly divided on the 2 underfoot needles. Now continue with plain knitting round and round, and also continue to decrease the one stitch on each side of the foot ON EVERY OTHER ROW (on underfoot needles) until only 18 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. Then continue without decreasing until 2½ inches from desired length of foot.
TOE—(This may be one of the other colors if you wish, as shown in picture. The color change may be made at any row desired. If you wish to achieve the size of color toe as shown in the sock illustrated, change to the other color yarn after knitting the 2nd sequence of 3 plain rows, as mentioned below.) Now start decreasing to shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each underfoot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain (change color), 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 1 plain, 1 dec., then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle.) Weave toe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with yarn coming from back of knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off, then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on. This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off, P—on
Back needle P—off, K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.
FINISH—Sew sock up the back, using corresponding color yarn and tapestry needle. Sew foot of sock up each side where instep pattern was knitted separately from lower foot in that area. Finish inside of sock by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block socks on dryers of proper size.
Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown in color and by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares. The number of rows and number of stitches in each, depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the approximate size of sock desired in order to fit the wearer's leg. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.
Each row is normally knitted and purled back in the same colors. For certain patterns which are easily repeated, the knitter may, in purling back, go to the next row. In this case the indicated pattern will be reduced in size by one-half, and the entire pattern must then be repeated in order to achieve the length indicated.
Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of plain socks. In certain patterns where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot, this part of the sock may be knitted round and round as in plain socks.
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