Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.
Knit right and left socks, if you wish. Sizes 10 to 13.
Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER ONE needles. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 10 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. Note: 10 stitches per inch means 'as knit', without allowance for blocking. Socks then block to about 9 stitches per inch on usual size dryers, and will cling snugly to the average size leg when worn. For a very small size leg (such as 7 inches around above ankle) you may wish to knit to a tighter tension gauge than mentioned above, using the smallest possible needles. Use your own choice of yarn colors.
In choosing yarn, be sure colors selected are in good contrast to show the design in sharp detail. For a special effect, use green or an alternate bright color for the devil's eyes, if you wish.
(Directions herein are complete, including recommended methods for heel and toe which place sewed seams at side or foot to insure wearing comfort. Free detailed instructions for beginners on how to knit, purl, etc., should be obtainable from the shop where yarn is purchased.)
MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following yarn quantities for an average size pair of socks, are approximate only.) 2 oz. basic color grey, ¼ oz. red, ¼ oz. yellow, 3 yds. black. Socks illustrated are 7 inches long above top of heel, including 2 inches of ribbing. If longer or shorter socks are desired, change length of ribbing or number of plain rows at the top. Use size No. 1 sock needles, double pointed, and regular 3-ply sock yarn.
IMPORTANT (Handling Yarn)—Use needles and yarn in the above accurate sizes in order to have sock of proper size per this pattern. Knitting tension should produce 10 stitches per inch. Use BOBBINS to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color. These will dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglement. For certain small areas of color involving only a few stitches, you may prefer to merely use SHORT STRANDS of yarn, 12 to 15 inches long, dangling free, instead of bothering to wind separate bobbins. RECOMMENDATION—Make free use of additional bobbins or short strands as new color groups are encountered. A given strand will often be used over again for stitches in the same color group in the following rows, so be sure it is started long enough for the color group it is to handle. CAUTION—It is not desirable to carry one color yarn across the wrong side of another color, to reach stitches of the same color farther along the row. This would save extra strands of yarn, but in so doing the tension variation is likely to cause distortion of the stitches and thus spoil the clarity of the design. In some cases this carry-over of yarn can be accomplished satisfactorily across only one or two stitches of another color, where design detail is not too critical. Some experienced knitters can carry yarn across even more than 2 stitches and avoid a loose loop on inside of sock by twisting the yarn carried with the yarn being worked, but the danger of design distortion must be considered. You will have a more beautiful finished article if separate strands are used freely. The only inconvenience is a few more yarn ends to take care of in finishing inside of sock.
RECOMMENDATION ON BOBBINS FOR THIS PATTERN—On row No. 9 where color changes begin, use separate bobbins of grey for the 34 and 30 stitch sequences. Continue to use these bobbins for areas of grey on each side of devil. On row No. 9 start devil's horns with 2 separate short strands of red, one of which could be on a bobbin with enough yarn to use down the face and shoulders of the devil. Use a separate short strand of grey for the 6 stitches between horns. Use a separate short strand for each red and yellow flame. Also use short strands for grey areas between flames, and for other small color groups—black, etc.
LEG PATTERN—This part of sock is knitted in a flat piece, eventually to be folded and sewed together up the back. The successive pattern rows on the pattern are knitted in order from left to right, and each row is purled back. Each pattern row thus represents 2 rows of usual knitting. First cast on 72 stitches of basic color grey and knit 2, purl 2, for ribbing for 2 inches. Knit the first 8 rows plain and purl each row back to the beginning before starting next row. Knit the 9th row as shown on graph, that is: 34 grey, 1 red, 6 grey, 1 red, 30 grey. These numbers are indicated on the graph to save counting square. In changing colors always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now turn and purl back ON THIS SAME ROW, using the same colors in the same places. Now knit row No. 10 in the indicated color sequence … 35 grey, 1 red … etc., and purl back as before. Continue thus for 36 rows, after which work separates into instep and heel.
INSTEP—After completing 36 rows, divide the 72 stitches, taking 18 off each end, place on separate needles or stitch holders to work later (will be the heel.) Now continue pattern down the instep of the sock using only the 36 center stitches. First row is 1 yellow, 2 red, 5 yellow … etc. Continue for 11 rows to end of pattern proper. Now discontinue work on this part of sock and knit the heel.
HEEL—(Reinforced type) Place the 2 groups of 18 stitches, previously divided from the instep pattern, on one needle. This folds the main pattern, or leg of the sock, into position for sewing up the back later. Now slip 1, knit 1 in sequence for the first row, then purl back. Continue thus in successive rows for 2 inches. On the last purl row, purl 20 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 21 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2-inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles. Now proceed to knit a row, purl a row, alternately, and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the foot ON EACH KNIT ROW ONLY, to form ankle gusset. When work evens up with instep pattern previously completed, join all work together on 3 needles, keeping the 36 instep stitches on the one needle, other stitches evenly divided on the 2 underfoot needles. Now continue with plain knitting round and round, and also continue to decrease the one stitch on each side of the foot ON EVERY OTHER ROW (on underfoot needles) until only 18 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. Then continue without decreasing until 2½ inches from desired length of foot.
TOE—Now start decreasing to shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each underfoot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 1 plain, 1 dec., then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle.) Weave toe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with yarn coming from back of knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off, then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on. This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off, P—on
Back needle P—off, K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.
FINISH—Sew sock up the back, using corresponding color yarn and tapestry needle. Sew foot of sock up each side where instep pattern was knitted separately from lower foot in that area. Finish inside of sock by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block socks on dryers of proper size.
Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown in color and by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares. The number of rows and number of stitches in each, depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the approximate size of sock desired in order to fit the wearer's leg. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.
Each row is normally knitted and purled back in the same colors. For certain patterns which are easily repeated, the knitter may, in purling back, go to the next row. In this case the indicated pattern will be reduced in size by one-half, and the entire pattern must then be repeated in order to achieve the length indicated.
Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of plain socks. In certain patterns where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot, this part of the sock may be knitted round and round as in plain socks.
Browse the pattern categories to help you find thes you're looking for.