Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.
Knit right and left socks, if you wish. This pattern also suitable for working into a sweater or dress design. Use Angora yarn for basket netting.
Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER ONE needles. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 10 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. Note: 10 stitches per inch means 'as knit', without allowance for blocking. Socks then block to about 9 stitches per inch on usual size dryers, and will cling snugly to the average size leg when worn. For a very small size leg (such as 7 inches around above ankle) you may wish to knit to a tighter tension gauge than mentioned above, using the smallest possible needles. Use your own choice of yarn colors.
NOTE REGARDING HALF-SQUARES
You will note that certain squares in the pattern of the basketball ore divided in half to provide finer detail in the design, thus making ball more round. These particular squares are thus to be knitted across in the color of the upper half, then purled back in the color of the lower half of square.
RIGHT AND LEFT SOCKS
You will note that right and left socks may be knit for this pattern, so that the design of basket may then always be worn on outside of foot. To do this, knit the right sock in usual manner starting in upper left corner of pattern. FOR THE LEFT SOCK start in upper right corner and knit the rows from right to left, purling each back from left to right. The other side of the design then becomes the finished side.
NOTE: IN CHOOSING YARN, be sure colors selected are in good contrast to bring out the design in sharp detail. Suggested alternate colors: WINE colored sock with WHITE ball and BLACK frame around backstop, Angora basket; NAVY BLUE with RED ball, RED frame, RED hoop, Angora basket; or GREY sock with BLACK basketball, or BROWN with YELLOW, possibly YELLOW Angora for basket netting. Other colors of Angora could be used for basket with suitable contrasting background.
USE CARE WITH ANGORA
The 100% French Angora is recommended for the basket netting since it is the fuzziest. Some brands of this yarn are quite heavy in texture and might make the pattern stitches too heavy to be attractive. If stitches appear too coarse, the finer yarn may be attained by simply untwisting one ply of the Angora, then knitting with the part remaining.
(Directions herein are complete, including recommended methods for heel and toe. Free detailed instructions for beginners on how to knit, purl, etc., should be obtainable from the shop where yarn is purchased.)
MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following yarn quantities for an average size pair of socks, are approximate only.) 2 oz. basic color blue, 4 yds. white, 6 yds. brown, 3 yds. black, 10 yds. white Angora. Socks illustrated are 7 inches long above top of heel, including 2 inches of ribbing. If longer or shorter socks are desired, change length of ribbing or number of plain rows at top or bottom. Use size No. One sock needles, double pointed, and regular 3-ply sock yarn.
IMPORTANT (Handling Yarn)—Use needles and yarn in the above accurate sizes in order to have sock of proper size per this pattern. Knitting tension should produce 10 stitches per inch. Use BOBBINS to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color. These will dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglement. For certain small areas of color involving only a few stitches, you may prefer to merely use SHORT STRANDS of yarn, 12 to 15 inches long, dangling free, instead of bothering to wind separate bobbins. RECOMMENDATION—Make free use of additional bobbins or short strands as new color groups are encountered. A given strand will often be used over again for stitches in the same color group in the following rows, so be sure if is started long enough for the color group it is to handle. CAUTION—It is not desirable to carry one color yarn across the wrong side of another color, to reach stitches of the same color farther along the row. This would save extra strands of yarn, but in so doing the tension variation is likely to cause distortion of the stitches and thus spoil the clarity of the design. In some cases this carry-over of yarn can be accomplished satisfactorily across only one or two stitches of another color, where design detail is not too critical. Some experienced knitters can carry yarn across even more than 2 stitches and avoid a loose loop on inside of sock by twisting the yarn carried with the yarn being worked, but the danger of design distortion must be considered. You will have a more beautiful finished article if separate strands are used freely. The only inconvenience is a few more yarn ends to take care of in finishing inside of sock.
RECOMMENDATION ON BOBBINS FOR THIS PATTERN—Use 3 bobbins of basic color yarn for the 3 principal areas of background separated by ball and basket. Use about 7 short strands of background color for the diagonal lines interspersed among the lines of Angora netting. Use about 8 short strands of Angora for the diagonal lines of netting. White in backstop may be conveniently carried on a bobbin, as also the brown for the basketball. White in ball, brown edge of backstop, and black hoop may be handled with short strands. Total required: 5 bobbins (3 blue, 1 brown, 1 white) plus short strands.
PURL-BACK VARIATIONS (HALF SQUARES)—You will note on rows 6, 7, 8, 14, 15, & 16, certain stitches, as shown by squares, are divided in half and colored accordingly to form finer detail in the design (makes basketball more round). This means that you do not purl these particular stitches back in the same color they are knit, but change to the new color as indicated. Thus for row #6, after knitting 47 blue, knit 2 more blue (divided squares), 3 brown, 2 blue (divided squares), 18 blue. In purling back, purl 18 blue, 2 brown (divided squares), 3 brown, 2 brown (divided squares), 47 blue. Similarly handle the other half-squares in the pattern of the ball. These variations apply to these few squares only, all other rows being purled back in exactly the same colors knit.
LEG PATTERN—This part of sock is knitted in a flat piece, eventually to be folded and sewed together up the back. The successive rows on the pattern are knitted in order from left to right and each row is purled back. Each row thus represents 2 rows of usual knitting. NOTE: This particular pattern lends itself to being knit for "RIGHT" and "LEFT" socks, so that when worn, the basket design appears on outside of each foot. For the "RIGHT" sock knit across from left to right in usual manner. For the "LEFT" sock, start in upper right corner of pattern and knit the rows from right to left, purling back from left to right. The opposite side of work then becomes the finished side.
First cast on 72 stitches of basic color and knit 2, purl 2, for ribbing for 2 inches. Knit the first 5 rows of pattern plain and purl each row back to the beginning before starting next row. Pattern proper begins on 6th row. Knit the stitch groups as shown: 47 blue, 2 blue (divided squares). (See above under "Purl-Back Variations"), 3 brown, 2 blue, 18 blue. These numbers, except for half squares, are indicated on graph to save counting squares. In changing colors always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now turn and purl back ON THIS SAME ROW using colors as indicated. (Note that divided squares change colors; all other squares use same color in same places). Now knit row No. 7 in the indicated color sequence, 19 blue, 2 brown … etc., and purl back as before. Continue knitting the successive rows in this manner using the color sequences indicated on the graph. After row No. 36 the work separates to knit the heel. Divide the 72 stitches, taking 18 off each end and place on a separate needle for the heel. In so doing the leg of the sock is folded into position for sewing up the back later. Leave the 36 center stitches on one needle and discontinue work thereon while doing the heel.
HEEL—(Reinforced type) Using the 36 heel stitches, slip 1, knit 1 in sequence for the first row, then purl back. Continue thus in successive rows for 2 inches. On the last purl row, purl 20 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 21 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2-inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles.
INSTEP—At this point the entire sock is on three needles, consisting of the instep needle with the 36 center stitches (which must be kept separate), and the two underfoot needles on which the stitches along the edge of the finished heel are evenly divided. Now use a 4th working needle and knit the plain-color foot round and round as with plain socks, and at the same time form the triangular gusset which widens the ankle, by decreasing 1 stitch at the forward point of each underfoot needle ON EVERY OTHER ROW until only 18 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. You will probably decrease 13 or 14 times depending on whether 21 or 22 stitches were picked up along the heel edge. Continue knitting the foot without further decreasing until 2½ inches from the desired length of the foot.
TOE—Now start decreasing to shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each under-foot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 1 plain, 1 dec., then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle.) Weave toe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with yarn coming from back of knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off, then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on. This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off P—on
Back needle P—off K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.
FINISH—Sew sock up the back, using corresponding color of yarn and tapestry needle. Finish inside of sock by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block socks on dryers of proper size.
Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown in color and by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares. The number of rows and number of stitches in each, depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the approximate size of sock desired in order to fit the wearer's leg. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.
Each row is normally knitted and purled back in the same colors. For certain patterns which are easily repeated, the knitter may, in purling back, go to the next row. In this case the indicated pattern will be reduced in size by one-half, and the entire pattern must then be repeated in order to achieve the length indicated.
Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of plain socks. In certain patterns where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot, this part of the sock may be knitted round and round as in plain socks.
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