Materials: Chadwick's Red Heart Shetland Floss (1½ ounce balls), 15 balls of main color (a dark color) and 2 balls of light contrasting color. Milward's Casein knitting pins, 1 pair No. 2 (2¾ mm. size) and 1 pair No. 3 (3 mm. size). Milward's circular knitting pin No. 3 (3 mm. size). Milward's steel crochet hook No. 3. A 7 inch length of Talon spectra slide fastener. 28 inch length of belting, 3 buttons and a ¼ yd. of crinoline.
Gauge: 8 sts make 1 inch; 12 rows make 1 inch.
Back. Starting at bottom, with main color cast on 86 sts on No. 3 straight needles. 1st row: * K 2, p 5, repeat from * across, ending row with k 2. 2nd row: * P 2, k 5, repeat from * across, ending row with p 2. 3rd to 6th rows incl: Repeat 1st and 2nd rows alternately. 1 row of blocks made. 7th row: P 2, * k 2, p 5, repeat from * across. 8th row: * K 5, p 2, repeat from * across, ending row with k 2 (instead of k 5). 9th to 12th rows incl: Repeat 7th and 8th rows alternately. These 12 rows constitute the pattern. The side with the k 2 blocks is the right side of work. Repeat these 12 rows until 36 rows in all (6 rows of blocks) are made. Then increase 1 st at both ends of next row and every 8th row thereafter for 5 times (98 sts on needle). Then increase 1 st at both ends of every 6th row for 3 times (104 sts on needle). Work in pattern straight, until 19 rows of blocks are completed. Then work 3 rows of next row of blocks.
To Shape Armholes: Bind off 7 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at both ends of next row (88 sts remain). Break off.
Yoke: Attach light color and with right side of work toward you, k across entire row. Next row: * P 2, k 5, repeat from * across, ending row with p 2, k 2 (instead of k 5). Hereafter continue in pattern straight until 10 rows of blocks are made for yoke. Then to shape shoulders, bind off 7 sts at beginning of each row until 32 sts remain. Bind off remaining sts for back of neck.
Front. Cast on 93 sts and work in pattern as for back up to armhole shaping (111 sts on needle).
To Shape Armholes: Shape armholes as for back (95 sts remain). Break off.
Yoke. Right Front: Attach light color and with right side of work toward you, k across entire row. Next row: Work in pattern as for back across first 52 sts (place remaining 43 sts on stitch holder to be worked later). Work in pattern over these 52 sts (keeping armhole edge straight) and working as follows: * Work 1 row of blocks. On the 3rd row of next row of blocks, make a buttonhole 3 sts in from center front edge. (To make a buttonhole, bind off 4 sts on one row, and on next row cast on 4 sts to replace those bound off.) Work 2 rows in pattern to complete this row of blocks. Repeat from * twice more. Then work a row of blocks (7 rows of blocks in yoke are made). To shape neck, on next row starting at neck edge, bind off first 8 sts and continue in pattern across. Next row: Work in pattern across. Then bind off 2 sts at neck edge every other row for 3 times (38 sts remain). Decrease 1 st at neck edge every other row until 34 sts remain. Then work in pattern straight until 10 rows of blocks are made. To shape shoulders, bind off 8 sts at beginning of each row at armhole edge until 10 sts remain. Bind off.
Left Front: With wrong side of work toward you, pick up 8 sts in back of right front (that is first 8 sts beginning at center front edge) thus starting placket, work in pattern across the next 43 sts. Turn and work left front to correspond with right front, omitting buttonholes.
Sleeves. Starting at cuff, with main color cast on 56 sts on No. 2 needles, and work in ribbing of k 1, p 1, for 3½ inches. Continue in ribbing, increasing 1 st at both ends of next row and every 4th row thereafter for 4 times (66 sts), then every 6th row for 7 times (80 sts). Work in ribbing straight until work measures 10 inches. Change to No. 3 straight needles and k across increasing 1 st in every 5th st (96 sts). Hereafter work in block pattern as for back, decreasing as follows: Work in pattern for 2 inches. Decrease 1 st at both ends of next row and every 6th row for 7 times (80 sts remain). Work in pattern straight until 10 rows of blocks are made. To shape top of sleeve, bind off 3 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows. Then decrease 1 st at end of each row until 32 sts remain. Bind off.
Epaulettes: With light color, cast on 51 sts on No. 3 straight needles and work one row of blocks. Then continue in pattern binding off 2 sts at the beginning of each row until 21 sts remain. Bind off. Make another piece same as this.
Collar. Starting at lower edge, with light color cast on 128 sts on No. 2 needles and work in ribbing of k 1, p 1, for 2½ inches. Next row: Work in ribbing across first 28 sts, bind off next 72 sts, continue in ribbing across remaining 28 sts. Turn and work across these last 28 sts. Next row: Bind off first 10 sts, continue in ribbing across. Following row: Work in ribbing across. Repeat the last 2 rows once more. Next row: Bind off remaining 8 sts. Attach yarn to the 28 sts on other side of collar and work to correspond.
Cord Belt. For a belt 40 inches long, measure off about eight 2½ yd. lengths of main color, twist tightly, then double the twisted strands and give them a second twist in the opposite direction. Make a knot at each end to fasten.
After pieces have been blocked, sew up side and shoulder seams. Sew curved edge of collar to neck edge, 1 inch in from each end of front opening. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Baste each epaulette piece to 3 thicknesses of crinoline, and cut crinoline to shape. Turn under ¼ inch all around and hem in place. Place epaulette piece in position on top of shoulder, having the straight edge fit into the armhole. Sew in place. Sew up sleeve seams and sew sleeves in place underneath the epaulettes. Sew curved edge of epaulettes to sleeves.
Skirt is worked on wrong side. Starting at bottom of skirt, with main color cast on 360 sts on circular needle and k around being careful that sts on needle are not twisted. Mark end of rnd with a colored thread. 1st rnd: * P 2, k 13, repeat from * around. 2nd to 6th rnds incl: P over the p sts, and k over the k sts. 7th rnd: * K 13, p 2 (thus shifting block pattern 2 sts over to the right), repeat from * around. 8th to 12 rnds incl: K over the k sts, and p over the p sts. These 12 rnds constitute the pattern for entire skirt. Shape skirt as follows: Work in pattern straight until 14 rows of blocks are completed. On next rnd, decrease 1 st in every other knit section (to decrease, p the 2nd st of p 2-block and the 1st st of the next knit section together as 1 st), 348 sts will remain on needle. * Complete this row of blocks and work in pattern straight for 3 more rows of blocks (there will be 1 st less in each knit section where decrease was made). On next rnd, decrease 1 st in each knit section where decreases were not made in previous rnd. Repeat from * until 31 rows of blocks in all are made (300 sts remain). ** Work in pattern straight 1 more row of blocks. On next rnd, decrease 1 st in every other knit section as before, then complete this row of blocks. Repeat from ** until 37 rows of blocks in all are made. On next rnd, work to center of next knit section, turn.
Hereafter work in pattern back and forth in rows, turning at end of each row (thus making side opening), and decreasing as follows: Complete the 38th row of blocks. *** On next rnd, decrease 1 st in each section (the two edge half-sections, considered as one section in distributing decreases). There will be 24 sts decreased. Complete this row of blocks. Work in pattern straight 1 more row of blocks. Repeat from *** until 45 rows of blocks in all are made (168 sts remain). If a longer skirt is desired work a few more rows in pattern straight. Bind off.
Turn skirt to right side. Sew in belting, and slide fastener on wrong side of skirt. Fasten belting with hooks and eyes. With crochet hook, work 2 rnds of s c around lower edge of skirt. Block skirt.
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