Materials: Chadwick's Red Heart Lustre Knitting Worsted, 17 skeins (1¾ ounce skeins). Milward's Casein knitting pins, 1 pair No. 9 (5¼ mm. size). Milward's steel crochet hook No. 2. 8 buttons and 30 inch length of narrow elastic.
Gauge: 9 sts make 2 inches; 6 rows make 1 inch.
Yokes are worked separately, then sewed onto jacket.
Back. Starting at bottom, cast on 68 sts. 1st row: K across. 2nd row: * K 1, p 1, repeat from * across. These 2 rows constitute the pattern. Repeat these 2 rows alternately, decreasing 1 st at both ends of every 4th row for 6 times (56 sts remain). Work in pattern straight for 2 inches (the side of work with the k 1 ribs is the right side). Then increase 1 st at both ends of next row and every inch thereafter for 6 times (70 sts on needle). Work in pattern straight until work measures 12½ inches.
To Shape Armholes: Bind off 3 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows. Then decrease 1 st at both ends of every other row for 3 times (58 sts remain). Work in pattern straight until work measures 7 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping. To shape shoulders, bind off 4 sts at beginning of each row for 8 times. Bind off remaining 26 sts for back of neck.
Left Front. Starting at bottom, cast on 32 sts. Work in pattern for 4 rows. On next row, decrease 1 st at beginning (seam side), work in pattern across, increase 1 st at end (front edge). Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at seam side and increasing 1 st at front edge every 4th row for 5 more times. Work in pattern straight for 2 inches. Then continue increasing on seam side as for back, working armhole as for back and at the same time decreasing 1 st every 4th row at front edge for 20 times, then every row for 8 times. Bind off remaining sts.
Right Front. Work to correspond, reversing shapings.
Yoke. (Left Side). Starting at lower point, cast on 2 sts and work in pattern, increasing 1 st at end of every k row until there are 48 sts on needle. The edge with the increases is the center front edge. Next row: Starting at center front edge, bind off first 20 sts (for jabot), continue in pattern across. Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at end of every k row until 20 sts remain. Bind off these 20 sts for shoulder. Work right side of yoke to correspond, reversing shapings.
Sleeves. Starting at wrist, cast on 28 sts and work in pattern, increasing 1 st at both ends of 1 row every inch until there are 54 sts on needle. Work in pattern straight until sleeve measures 16 inches. To shape top of sleeve, bind off 3 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows. Then decrease 1 st at both ends of every k row until 16 sts remain. Bind off. After pieces have been blocked, sew up side seams. Place each yoke in position over fronts and sew in place. Sew up sleeve seams and sew sleeves in.
Neck Band. Attach yarn at neck edge 3 inches from shoulder seam on right yoke, and, working along neck edge with crochet hook, work 15 s c to shoulder, 22 s c across back and 15 s c across the 3 inches on left yoke. Ch 1, turn. 2nd to 7th rows incl: S c in each s c. Ch 1, turn. At end of 7th row, ch 5, s c in base of band (thus making a loop), then work a row of s c across lapel, down front edge, across lower edge, up right front edge and across the right lapel, making a buttonloop (as before) at neck band. Break off. Attach yarn to base of neck band on left side and work another row of s c, making a ch-5 buttonloop at lower front of yoke and every 2 inches thereafter until 4 buttonloops are made, then continue up front edge and across lapel. Break off.
Belt. Make a chain to measure ½ inch less than your own waistline, and work 8 rows of s c, making a ch-5 buttonloop at both ends of belt as in neck band.
Button Shanks. With 3 strands of yarn, make a chain to measure 1½ inches, then make s c in each ch across. Break off. Sew a button to each end and pull through buttonloops of belt. Make another one same as this for neck. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonloops.
Front. Starting at bottom, cast on 142 sts and work in pattern as for jacket until work measures 6 inches. Decrease 1 st at both ends of next row and every 2 inches thereafter twice (136 sts remain). On next row, work in pattern across first 50 sts, bind off next 36 sts (for an inverted pleat), continue in pattern across remaining 50 sts. Work in pattern over these 100 sts for 1 inch. Then decrease 1 st at both ends of next row and every 2 inches thereafter for 3 times (92 sts remain). Then decrease 1 st at both ends of 1 row every inch until 80 sts remain. Decrease 1 st at both ends of every 4th row until 66 sts remain. If a longer skirt is desired, work a few rows in pattern straight. Bind off.
Back. Starting at bottom, cast on 106 sts and work as for front, omitting the pleat. After pieces have been blocked, sew up side seams. Fold pleat in place, as in illustration, and sew across top on wrong side. Attach yarn to waistline and make a beading as follows: With crochet hook, work a row of s c around top of skirt, then ch 5, * skip 2 s c, d c in next s c, ch 2, repeat from * around. Join with sl st. Break off. Run elastic through beading.
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