Materials: Chadwick's Red Heart Sports Yarn, 18 balls of main color (dark color), 6 balls of a lighter shade of same color (1 ounce balls). Milward's Casein knitting pins, 1 pair No. 4 (3½ mm. size). Milward's steel crochet hook No. 3. 30 inch length of narrow elastic. 13 buttons and a leather belt.
Gauge: 6 sts make 1 inch; 16 rows make 2 inches.
Back. Starting at bottom, with light shade cast on 128 sts and k 1 row. Then work in pattern as follows: 1st row: * K 3, sl 1 st as if to p. Repeat from * across, ending row with sl 1 st as if to p. 2nd and all even rows: Sl the sl sts, and p the p sts of previous row. 3rd row: * Sl 1 st as if to p, k 3. Repeat from * across. 4th row: Same as 2nd row. Then drop lighter shade and attach dark color. 5th row: K 1, * sl 1 st as if to p, k 3. Repeat from * across, ending row with sl 1, k 2. 7th row: K 2, * sl 1 st as if to p, k 3. Repeat from * across, ending row with sl 1, k 1. 8th row: Same as 2nd row. Drop dark color and pick up lighter shade. These 8 rows constitute the pattern for entire jacket. Continue in pattern for 4 more rows. Hereafter, decrease 1 st at both ends of 1st row of each color, until 8 light stripes are made. Work in pattern straight until 10 dark stripes in all are made. Then increase 1 st at both ends of 1st row of every light stripe for 9 times (122 sts). Work in pattern straight for 2 more stripes (20 light stripes are made).
To Shape Armholes: Bind off 8 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows (using both threads on side where thread is carried). Then decrease 1 st at both ends of next and every other row, 6 times (94 sts). Hereafter, work straight until work measures 6 inches from 1st row of armhole shaping. Then to shape shoulders, bind off 6 sts at beginning of each of next 10 rows. Bind off remaining 34 sts for back of neck.
Right Front. (Center front band is worked separately and later sewed to jacket.) Starting at bottom, with lighter shade cast on 72 sts and work as for back, keeping front edge straight and shaping underarm side, and armhole as for back (56 sts remain). When work measures 4¾ inches from 1st row of armhole shaping, start neck shaping as follows: Next row: Starting at neck edge, bind off 1st 8 sts and work in pattern across. Decrease 1 st at neck edge every row until 30 sts remain. Shape shoulder as for back, making the usual decreases at neck edge until all sts are worked off.
Left Front. Work as for right front, reversing underarm and armhole shapings.
Front Bands: With lighter shade, cast on 12 sts and work in stockinette st (k 1 row, p 1 row), until band measures same length as front edge. Bind off. Sew buttons on this band, as in illustration. Work another band same as this, making buttonholes to correspond with buttons on other band. (To make a buttonhole, on one row k 2, bind off 3 sts, k 2, bind off 3 sts, k 2. On next row, p 2, cast on 3 sts, k 2, cast on 3 sts, k 2.) Fold this band lengthwise so that buttonholes are adjacent to one another, and sew to right center front on wrong side of jacket. Sew previous band to left front in the same way.
Sleeves. With lighter shade, cast on 52 sts and work in pattern for 6 stripes. Increase 1 st at both ends of 1st row of next stripe and the 11th stripe, then every 3rd stripe for 5 times, then every other stripe for 5 times (76 sts on needle). Work in pattern straight for 7 stripes. To shape top of sleeve, bind off 8 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows, then decrease 1 st at beginning of each row until 28 sts remain. Decrease 1 st at both ends of each row until 16 sts remain. Bind off.
Collar. With dark color and crochet hook, ch 117 (to measure about 16 inches), turn. 1st row: S c in 2nd ch from hook, and s c in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: S c in each s c across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat the 2nd row, until work measures 2¾ inches. Work a row of s c along the two short sides and one long side of collar, inserting hook at base of each s c of previous row.
Cuffs. With dark color, ch 53 (to measure about 8½ inches), and work as for collar for 1¾ inches. Sew up short sides together and finish off one edge with a row of s c as for collar.
After pieces have been blocked, sew up underarm and shoulder seams. Sew up sleeves, and sew sleeves in. Sew collar to neck edge, having ½ width of each front band extend beyond collar. Sew cuffs to sleeves. Sew the two thicknesses of buttonholes together with over and over stitches.
Back. With dark color, cast on 176 sts and work in stockinette st (k 1 row, p 1 row) for 1½ inches. Then work in pattern as follows: 1st row: * K 4, p 4, repeat from * across. 2nd row: K 3, * p 4, k 4. Repeat from * across, ending row with p 4, k 1. 3rd row: P 2, * k 4, p 4. Repeat from * across, ending row with k 4, p 2. 4th row: K 1, * p 4, k 4. Repeat from * across, ending row with p 4, k 3. 5th row: * P 4, k 4, repeat from * across. 6th row: P 3, * k 4, p 4. Repeat from * across, ending row with k 4, p 1. 7th row: K 2, * p 4, k 4. Repeat from * across, ending row with p 4, k 2. 8th row: P 1, * k 4, p 4. Repeat from * across, ending row with k 4, p 3. 9th row: Same as 1st row. 10th row: Same as 8th row. 11th row: Same as 7th row. 12th row: Same as 6th row. 13th row: Same as 5th row. 14th row: Same as 4th row. 15th row: Same as 3rd row. 16th row: Same as 2nd row. These 16 rows constitute the pattern. Repeat these 16 rows, decreasing 1 st at both ends of 1 row every 2 inches, until work measures 10½ inches in all. On next row, work in pattern across first 4 patterns (k 4, p 4 is 1 pattern), bind off next 4 patterns (for a side pleat), work in pattern across remaining sts. Continue working in pattern, decreasing 1 st at both ends of 1 row every 2 inches until work measures 24 inches. Then decrease 1 st at both ends of 1 row every inch until skirt measures 33 inches or desired length. Bind off.
Front. Work exactly as for back.
After pieces have been blocked, sew up side seams. Turn under 1½ inches stockinette and sew in place for a hem. Fold pleats in place, as in illustration, and sew across top on wrong side. Attach yarn to waistline and make beading as follows: With crochet hook, work a row of s c around top of skirt, then * ch 5, sl st in 6th row from top on wrong side and 4 sts to left, ch 5, sl st in 8th st from last st at top edge, repeat from * around. Run elastic through beading.
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