Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.
Knit your own choice of name across cuff, or substitute green stripe, or leave blank, if you wish.
Medium size approximately 18 inches top-to-toe.
IMPORTANT
Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER FOUR needles and regular 4-ply knitting worsted or Germantown type yarn. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 6 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. The above applies where it is desired to make a medium size stocking about 18 inches long and 5 inches wide at the top. If a larger or smaller stocking is desired use larger or smaller needles to obtain the gauge desired. Knitting 5 stitches per inch will produce a large 21 inch stocking; 7 stitches per inch will make the stocking only about 16 inches long.
Use white Angora yarn for Santa's whiskers and the fur on his cap, if you wish. The 100% French Angora is recommended since it is the fuzziest. The deer's head could also be knit in beige Angora. You may wish to try other special effects such as carrying a thread of tinsel with the yarn when knitting the green trees, or the white part of the cuff; sewing sequins, or beads on trees when completed, etc.
Note that on rows 19, 20 and 22, Santa's eyes, nose and mouth are represented by stitches which are purled back in a color different from that of the previous knit row, in order to form the finer details in the design. These stitches are indicated by the squares which are divided in half and colored accordingly.
DIRECTIONS
(Basic instructions for beginners on the manner of casting-on, how to knit, purl, decrease, etc., cannot readily be given here. These details are usually obtainable free, from your yarn shop.)
MATERIALS—(Approximate yarn quantities per stocking.) IMPORTANT—use needles and yarn in sizes as indicated in order to achieve the proper size stocking which, per these directions, will be about 10½ inches long above top of heel, total length to toe approx. 18 inches. Use 4-ply Germantown type yarn, or knitting worsted, 2 oz. red, ½ oz. green, ¼ oz. white, 12 yds. Angora. 6 yds. beige. Use single pointed No. 4 needles for the pattern. 1 set of No. 4 double pointed needles will be necessary for the foot.
BOBBINS—In doing the pattern design it is well to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color on bobbins which dangle conveniently clear of your work avoiding entanglement. Separate bobbins are then used for separated sequences of stitches in various colors. Separate bobbins are not necessary where the interruption of a color sequence involves carrying the yarn over only a few stitches (such as up to about 5 stitches). This practice is tolerated particularly in this pattern which does not involve actual wearing-comfort, since the stocking is ornamental only. (Twist the yarn carried with the yarn being worked, for a neat appearance on the back.) For example—in knitting the deer antlers use one bobbin of beige for each of the two. Simply carry the beige yarn across the intervening green stitches. Similarly carry the green across the interrupting beige stitches. (Carry across wrong side of work of course). Actually for the smaller areas of color on the pattern, such as the antlers, Santa's cap, face, etc., it is not really necessary to have the yarn on a bobbin. Merely use a short 25 inch strand of yarn dangling free. It will be best to use 2 bobbins of green to work the separate areas on each side of Santa. Similarly 3 bobbins of red will be necessary to cover stitch groups interrupted by the deer head and Santa's beard.
NAME ON CUFF—If you wish you may knit an individual's name in the cuff of the stocking and perhaps the year designation, such as "JACK—1951" for example. Simply fill in the squares in the 5 white rows to form the letters you wish and knit letters in green. A complete alphabet is given below to show how each letter can best be formed. You will then need to count and number stitch groups in this area, or otherwise count squares while knitting these few rows. If a long name occupies all space on the cuff, the date could be added in space at bottom of pattern by eliminating the 2 green stripes. If you do not wish to knit in a name on cuff, it is suggested that you add 1 or 2 green stripes in the 5 white rows.
LEG PATTERN—This part of stocking is knitted in a flat piece, to be folded and sewed together up the back when completed. First cast on 62 stitches of red and purl back to the beginning—making first row of pattern. Continue knitting the first 10 rows in the color shown. PURL EACH ROW BACK IN THE SAME COLOR IT WAS KNIT. If you wish to knit in a name, as mentioned above, then you will begin knitting pattern details and changing colors along the row, on row number 3, to form the tops of the letters. Otherwise pattern details proper begin on row #11 as follows: Knit 3 white, 25 green, 6 white, 25 green, 3 white. In changing colors always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now purl back ON THIS SAME ROW using the same colors in the same places. Knit row #12 which is 2 white, 27 green … etc., and purl back as before. Continue knitting successive rows using the color sequences as indicated.
PURL-BACK VARIATIONS—You will note that on rows 19, 20, and 22, in doing Santa's eyes, nose and mouth, the stitches are purled back in a different color for these particular squares only, in order to form finer detail in the design. Thus on row #19 when you come to Santa's face, knit 1 beige, then 1 beige again (divided square), 3 beige, 1 beige (divided square) and 1 beige (actually knitting 7 beige solid across top of face). When purling back you will purl 1 beige, 1 green (divided square), 3 beige, 1 green (divided square), 1 beige. Similarly handle stitches for nose and mouth on rows 20 and 22.
Beginning at row No. 16 and every 6th row thereafter you will note that the total number of stitches decreases by 2. This is done by knitting two stitches together at the beginning of the row, and again at the end of the row, for these rows (Nos. 16, 22, 28, etc.) only. Decrease on knitted part of row only, not when purling. When the pattern is completed, the work is reduced to 52 stitches in length. At this point the work separates to knit the heel before proceeding down the instep.
Divide the 52 stitches, taking 13 off each end and place on one double pointed No. 4 sock needle for the heel. In so doing the leg of the stocking is folded into position for sewing up the back later. Leave the 26 center stitches on one needle or a stitch holder, and discontinue work thereon while doing the heel.
HEEL—Using the 26 stitches on the heel needle, knit a row and purl back in successive rows as before, for 2½ inches. On the last purl row, purl 15 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9 … etc.
Knit back 10 … etc.
… etc. Continue in this manner making rounded bottom of heel until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 20 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2½ inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles.
INSTEP—At this point the entire stocking is on three needles, consisting of the instep needle with 26 center stitches (which must be kept separate), and the two underfoot needles on which the stitches along the edge of the finished heel are evenly divided. Now use a 4th working needle and knit the foot round and round as with a plain sock, and at the same time form the triangular gusset which widens the ankle, by decreasing 1 stitch at the forward point of each underfoot needle ON EVERY ROW, until only 13 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. You will probably decrease 15 or 16 times depending on whether 20 or 22 stitches were picked up along the heel edge. Now continue knitting without further decreasing. Knit 2 rows beyond this point at which time you change color to knit the stripes in the foot. Knit 2 rows of white (these are now single knit rows), 2 rows green, 2 rows white. Then knit 16 rows of red at which point start decreasing to shape toe.
TOE—Shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each underfoot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 decreasing, 2 plain, 1 decreasing, 2 plain, 1 decreasing, 1 plain, 1 decreasing, then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle. Shift to the white yarn for toe at the point of reaching the above sequence of 2 rows plain, 1 decreasing … etc., to achieve the effect indicated in the stocking illustrated. Weave toe as follows:
Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with the yarn coming from the back of the knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on.
This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off P—on
Back needle P—off K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.
FINISH—Sew stocking up the back, using corresponding color of yarn and tapestry needle. Finish inside of stocking by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block stocking by dampening and laying out on a flat surface to dry (or steam press).
Attach jingle bells at white points of cuff of stocking by a loop of single crochet of about eight stitches, or they can be sewed on stocking direct. You may wish to attach a bell also to the toe of stocking as shown. You may substitute tassels or some other type of decoration if you wish. A special effect can be achieved by carrying a thread of tinsel with the yarn when knitting certain parts of the pattern, such as the cuff, or the tree, etc. Stocking shown has yarn streamers tied to rear of cuff.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares.
The number of rows and number of stitches in each depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the size and shape of the stocking desired. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.
Each row is knitted and purled back in the same color, except where otherwise indicated to form finer detail in the design. In which case the purled-back row may vary somewhat as shown in the pattern.
Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of a plain stocking or sock. Where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot this part of the stocking may be knitted round and round at in a plain sock.
