Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.
Knit your own choice of name and year, if you wish.
Medium size approximately 18 inches top-to-toe.
IMPORTANT
Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER FOUR needles and regular 4-ply knitting worsted or Germantown type yarn. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 6 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. The above applies where it is desired to make a medium size stocking about 18 inches long and 5 inches wide at the top. If a larger or smaller stocking is desired use larger or smaller needles to obtain the gauge desired. Knitting 5 stitches per inch will produce a large 21 inch stocking; 7 stitches per inch will make the stocking only about 16 inches long.
Use Angora yarn for Santa's whiskers, and for the fur trim on his cap and suit. The 100% French Angora is recommended since it is the fuzziest. You may also wish to knit the white part of cuff and the white trim on the foot in Angora, as shown on stocking illustrated; or use plain white yarn, perhaps with a strand of tinsel. Trim the green tree with sequins if you wish or carry a thread of tinsel with this yarn or leave tree untrimmed. Rhinestones make a nice decor for Santa's belt buckle. Other ideas may occur to you.
Note that Santa's eyes, nose and mouth are represented by half-squares, appropriately colored, to form finer detail in the design. These divided squares are thus to be purled back in a color different from that of the knit part of the row.
DIRECTIONS
(Basic instructions for beginners on the manner of casting-on, how to knit, purl, decrease, etc., cannot readily be given here. These details are usually obtainable free, from your yarn shop.)
MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following quantities per stocking, are approximate only.) Use 4-ply Germantown type yarn or knitting worsted, 1½ oz. red, ⅛ oz. yellow, ⅛ oz. green, 3 yds. beige or ruddy pink for Santa's face and mittens, 12 yds. black for belt and chimney, ⅛ oz. white. If Angora is used for Santa's beard and trim on his suit, approx. 28 yds. (about one 10-gram ball) is required. About 10 yds. additional will be necessary for cuff and white trim on foot. Use a pair of single pointed needles for the pattern. One set of double pointed sock needles will be necessary for the foot. Size No. 4 needles are recommended.
If desired, a green stripe can be added in center of white cuff, to thus match stripes in foot. Or you may wish to knit name and date in 5 rows of white in cuff. See below under "CHOICE OF NAME."
IMPORTANT (Handling Yarn)—Use BOBBINS to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color. These will dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglement. For certain small areas of color involving only a few stitches, you may prefer to merely use SHORT STRANDS of yarn, 12 to 15 inches long, dangling free, instead of bothering to wind separate bobbins. RECOMMENDATION—Make free use of additional bobbins or short strands as new color groups are encountered. A given strand will often be used over again for stitches in the same color group in the following rows, so be sure it is started long enough for the color group it is to handle. CAUTION—It is not desirable to carry one color yarn across the wrong side of another color, to reach stitches of the same color farther along the row. This would save extra strands of yarn, but in so doing the tension variation is likely to cause distortion of the stitches and thus spoil the clarity of the design. In some cases this carry-over of yarn can be accomplished satisfactorily across only one or two stitches of another color, where design detail is not too critical. Some experienced knitters can carry yarn across even more than 2 stitches and avoid a loose loop on inside of stocking by twisting the yarn carried with the yarn being worked, but the danger of design distortion must be considered. You will have a more beautiful finished article if separate strands are used freely. The only inconvenience is a few more yarn ends to take care of in finishing inside of stocking.
RECOMMENDATION ON BOBBINS FOR THIS PATTERN—Use separate bobbins of red for areas on each side of central figure of Santa and Chimney, and additional bobbins for red areas in Santa's suit. Use separate bobbins for yellow areas on each side of Santa. Use bobbin of green for tree, and short separate strands of green (or white) for each letter in "NOEL," and in other small green trim such as the eyes, belt buckle etc. Black for belt and chimney may be carried on a bobbin, then using separate short strands for vertical parts in chimney. Pink may also be carried more conveniently on a bobbin as well as the white. Angora especially should be so handled. A total of 9 bobbins are desirable (3 red, 2 yellow, 1 green, 1 black, 1 pink, 1 white) plus the various short strands.
CHOICE OF NAME—Knit your own choice of name below chimney if you wish. Simply fill in squares in the small blank graph shown below, to spell name desired. A complete alphabet is given showing how each letter can best be formed. Center the name in the 26 space area which will then fit exactly below chimney. After completing chimney, knit 2 rows plain, then knit in your name on next 5 rows as per your graph. Letters may be in green or white on the red background. You will have to count and number your stitch groups, or otherwise count squares, while knitting this part.
Note that the year's date can similarly be knitted-in, in lower foot (below stripe) if you wish. You will be knitting round and round at this point however, so you will have to add separate strands for each edge of each digit (since pulling yarn back even a few stitches is apt to cause serious distortion of the design). If you prefer to knit the name and date in white cuff, then make this white part 5 rows wide and graph in desired letters. This area will of course accommodate a longer name. A short name or date could be knitted in place of "NOEL" if desired.
LEG PATTERN—This part of stocking is knitted in a flat piece, to be folded and sewed together up the back when completed. First cast on 62 stitches of red and purl back to the beginning, making first row of pattern. Continue knitting the first 5 rows in the plain colors shown. PURL EACH ROW BACK IN THE SAME COLOR IT WAS KNIT. If you wish to knit a name in the cuff, as mentioned above, then you will begin knitting pattern details and changing colors along the row, on row number 3, to form the tops of the letters. Otherwise pattern details proper begin on row No. 6 as follows: Knit 16 red, 1 green, 8 red, 10 yellow, 27 red. These numbers are indicated on graph to save counting squares. In changing colors, always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now purl back ON THIS SAME ROW using the same colors in the same places. Now knit row No. 7 which is 16 red, 1 green … etc., and purl back as before. Continue in this manner for 50 rows using the color sequences, as shown with numbered stitch count, on the graph. See below regarding "SIDE DECREASES" and "PURL-BACK VARIATIONS."
SIDE DECREASES—Beginning at row No. 17 and every 6th row thereafter, you will note that the total number of stitches decreases by 2 (to shape stocking). This is done by knitting 2 stitches together at the beginning of the row, and again at the end of the row, for these rows (Nos. 17, 23, 29 etc.) only. Decrease on knitted part of row only, not when purling.
PURL BACK VARIATIONS—You will note that on rows 14, 15, and 17, in doing Santa's eyes, nose and mouth, the stitches are purled back in a different color to form finer detail in the design. Thus on row #14 when you come to Santa's face, knit 1 pink, then 2 green (divided squares), 2 pink, 2 green (divided squares), and 1 pink etc. When purling back, purl 1 pink, 2 pink (divided squares), 2 pink, 2 pink (divided squares), 1 pink (Actually purling 8 pink solid across). Similarly handle stitches for nose and mouth on rows 15 and 17. This applies to these few squares only; all others are purled back in same color as knit.
INSTEP—After completing 50 rows the work is reduced to 52 stitches. Divide these 52 stitches, taking 13 off each end, place on separate needles or stitch holders to work later (will be the heel). Now continue pattern down instep of the stocking using the 26 center stitches. First row is 1 black, 5 red … etc. Continue for 7 rows to end of pattern. Then knit across and purl back 2 rows plain, and knit in your choice of name as drawn on graph supplied hereon. When instep pattern is complete, discontinue work on this part of stocking and knit the heel.
HEEL—Place the 2 groups of 13 stitches previously divided from the instep pattern, on one needle. This folds the main pattern or leg of stocking into position for sewing up the back later. Now knit across this part and purl back in successive rows, as before, for 2½ inches. On the last purl row, purl 15 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
Etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of feet. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 20 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2½ inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should now be divided evenly on 2 needles for the underfoot knitting to follow. Now proceed to knit a row, purl a row alternately, and decrease one stitch on each side of the foot ON EACH KNIT ROW ONLY to form ankle gusset. When work evens up with instep pattern previously completed, join all work together on 3 needles, keeping the 26 instep stitches on the one needle, other stitches evenly divided on the 2 underfoot needles. Now use a 4th working needle and continue with plain knitting round and round, and also continue to decrease the one stitch on each side of the foot ON EVERY OTHER ROW. (These are now single knit rows) on underfoot needles, until only 13 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. Now continue plain knitting of foot without further decreasing. After 4 rows of plain red (single knit rows) change color to knit stripes in foot. Knit 2 rows of white, 2 green, 2 white. Then knit plain red for approx. 16 rows (until foot measures 7 inches long from back of heel) at which point start decreasing to shape toe.
TOE—Now start decreasing to shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each underfoot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 decreasing, 2 plain, 1 decreasing, 2 plain, 1 decreasing, 1 plain, 1 decreasing, then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle). The shift to white yarn for the toe may be carried out at any point, or the entire foot may be made red. We suggest shifting to the white at the point of reaching the above sequence of 2 rows plain, 1 decreasing … etc., to achieve the effect indicated in the stocking illustrated. Weave toe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with the yarn coming from the back of the knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on.
This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off P—on
Back needle P—off K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.
FINISH—Sew stocking up the back, using corresponding color of yarn and tapestry needle. Sew foot up each side where instep pattern was knitted separately from lower foot in that area. Finish inside of stocking by weaving yarn ends into nearby seams, trimming ends etc. Block stocking by dampening lightly and laying out on a flat surface to dry (or steam press).
Decorate stocking to suit your fancy. Stocking shown has jingle bells attached to yarn streamers, which are fastened to rear of cuffs. You may like a jingle bell attached to toe, or perhaps one attached to Santa's cap. These are noisier if they dangle a bit, so attach with a loop of single crochet of about 8 stitches, or sew on stocking direct.
Sew a piece of bias tape on inside of cuff near top of finished stocking. This will carry the load of the filled stocking, preventing excessive stretch of the knitting by any heavy articles.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares.
The number of rows and number of stitches in each depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the size and shape of the stocking desired. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.
Each row is knitted and purled back in the same color, except where otherwise indicated to form finer detail in the design. In which case the purled-back row may vary somewhat as shown in the pattern.
Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of a plain stocking or sock. Where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot this part of the stocking may be knitted round and round at in a plain sock.
