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Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.

Knit right and left socks, if you wish. Sizes 10 to 13.

IMPORTANT

Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER ONE needles. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 10 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge-then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. Note: 10 stitches per inch means 'as knit', without allowance for blocking. Socks then block to about 9 stitches per inch on usual size dryers, and will cling snugly to the average size leg when worn. For a very small size leg (such as 7 inches around above ankle) you may wish to knit to a tighter tension gauge than mentioned above, using the smallest possible needles. Use your own choice of yarn colors.

DIRECTIONS

MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following yarn quantities for an average size pair of socks, are approximate only.) 2 oz. basic color (grey), ¼ oz. red, ⅛ oz. black. Socks illustrated are 7 inches long above top of heel, including 2 inches of ribbing. If longer socks are desired, add ribbing, or repeat pattern to length desired. Use size No. One sock needles, double pointed, and regular 3-ply sock yarn.

IMPORTANT—Use needles and yarn in these accurate sizes in order to achieve proper size sock per this pattern. Knitting tension should produce an average gauge of about 10 stitches per inch. Note: It is well to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color, on bobbins which dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglements. However the diamonds and black stripes in this pattern are such small color groups that it is easier to use short strands of yarn (12 to 18 inches long) for each a roup, rather than bother with winding bobbins. Bobbins will be necessary for the background area where the groups of stitches are separated by the diamonds. Thus you will need 4 bobbins of basic color to start, and 5 when working with the second row of diamonds. Where the background color is interrupted only by the single black stitches, the grey yarn may be carried across these single black stitches as desired, in order to reduce the number of bobbins of grey in these particular rows.

LEG PATTERN—This part of sock is knitted in a flat piece, eventually to be folded and sewed together up the back. First cast on 72 stitches of basic color and knit 2, purl 2 for ribbing for 2 inches. Knit first pattern row as shown in graph, that is, 3 red, 12 grey, 6 red, 12 grey … etc. to end of row. These numbers are indicated on graph to save counting squares. In changing colors always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now turn and purl back ON THIS SAME ROW using the same colors in the same places. Now knit row 2 in the indicated color sequence, 2 red, 14 grey … etc. and purl back as before. Continue thus for 36 rows, following the pattern, after which work reparates into instep and heel.

INSTEP—Divide the 72 stitches, taking 18 off each end, place on separate needles or stitch holders to work later (will be the heel). Now continue pattern down the instep of the sock using only the 36 center stitches. First row is 3 red, 12 grey … etc. Continue to end of pattern. (If desired, more pattern rows may be added down the instep). Now discontinue work on this part of sock and knit the heel.

HEEL—(Reinforced type) Place the 2 groups of 18 stitches, previously divided from the instep pattern, on one needle. This folds the main pattern, or leg of the sock, into position for sewing up the back later. Now slip 1, knit 1 in sequence for the first row, then purl back. Continue thus in successive rows for 2 inches. On the last purl row, purl 20 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
… etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 21 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2-inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles. Now proceed to knit a row, purl a row, alternately, and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the foot on each knit row only, to form ankle gusset. When only 36 stitches remain on these 2 underfoot needles, continue without decreasing until this underfoot part is of necessary length to even up with instep pattern previously completed.

TOE—Join all work together on 3 needles, keeping the 36 instep stitches on the one needle, 18 stitches each on the 2 underfoot needles. Continue plain knitting round and round until 2½ inches from the desired length of foot. At this point start decreasing to shape toe as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each underfoot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 1 plain, 1 dec., then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 8 on the underfoot needles). Weave foe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with yarn coming from back of knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back needle and insert as if to purl and take it off, then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on.
This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off, P—on
Back needle P—off, K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.

FINISH—Sew sock up the back, using corresponding color yarn and tapestry needle. Sew foot of sock up each side where instep pattern was knitted separately from lower foot in that area. Finish inside of sock by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block socks on dryers of proper size.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown in color and by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares. The number of rows and number of stitches in each, depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the approximate size of sock desired in order to fit the wearer's leg. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.

Each row is normally knitted and purled back in the same colors. For certain patterns which are easily repeated, the knitter may, in purling back, go to the next row. In this case the indicated pattern will be reduced in size by one-half, and the entire pattern must then be repeated in order to achieve the length indicated.

Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of plain socks. In certain patterns where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot, this part of the sock may be knitted round and round as in plain socks.